When Eames Took Out a Full-Page Ad Warning About Fakes (And What Changed)

October 9, 2025 by Modernhaus

In 1962, Charles and Ray Eames did something that designers who'd spent their careers championing accessible furniture rarely do: they took out full-page newspaper ads warning people not to buy unauthorized versions of their work.

The ad appeared on the back cover of Arts & Architecture magazine. Simple, direct, unmistakably theirs. It instructed buyers to look for Herman Miller's logo - the only authorized manufacturer at the time. If the chair didn't have that mark, it wasn't an officially licensed Eames chair, no matter what the salesperson claimed.

This was awkward. Their entire philosophy revolved around making good design affordable and accessible. "The best to the most for the least" wasn't just a catchy phrase - it was the operating principle behind every molded plywood chair, every fiberglass shell, every design decision they'd made for fifteen years. Democracy through design. Furniture that worked for everyone.

But the lounge chair changed that calculation. At $310 in 1956 (roughly $3,100 today), it was expensive by any measure. And within months of its debut, other companies started making versions that looked nearly identical but cost significantly less.

Here's the contradiction that makes this story interesting: if you genuinely believe good design should be accessible to everyone, what do you do when other manufacturers make your design more accessible than you did? If someone produces a similar chair that captures much of the comfort and aesthetics but sells it for half the price, are they undermining your work or actually fulfilling your mission?

The Eameses apparently had strong feelings about this. By 1962, they'd seen enough unauthorized copies that they went public with their concerns. But the reasons why are more complicated than simple protectionism.

The Company That Made Copying an Art Form

Plycraft didn't hide what they were doing. The Lawrence, Massachusetts company produced dozens of chairs that were either direct copies of Eames designs or heavily influenced by them. Their lounge chairs looked enough like the Eames original that casual observers couldn't tell the difference from across a room.

But here's where it gets interesting: Plycraft also employed legitimate designers creating original work. George Mulhauser, who worked there, created the "Mr. Chair" in the mid-1950s - a lounge chair made from a single continuous piece of molded plywood with its own distinct character. It had tufted leather, bent plywood shells, swiveled and reclined, and yes, bore a family resemblance to the Eames lounge chair. But it was its own design, with its own engineering solutions.

The Mr. Chair even appeared on Star Trek. It sold well enough to become collectible. Today, vintage examples in good condition sell for $500 to $3,000. Mulhauser also designed the Coconut Chair for Herman Miller - the same company that manufactured the Eames pieces Plycraft was copying.

So Plycraft existed in this strange space: legitimate furniture manufacturer with real designers creating original work, while simultaneously producing Eames-style chairs. They weren't a counterfeiting ring operating in secret. They were a furniture company that saw a profitable design and decided making their own version was good business.

The quality varied. Some Plycraft chairs used solid construction and held up for decades. Others cut corners on materials. The Mr. Chair itself - Mulhauser's original design - is generally considered well-made. The direct Eames copies? That depended on which model and which production year you got.

What "Copy" Actually Means in Furniture

Eames Demetrios, Charles's grandson, made an observation about why this whole debate became so contentious: "Most people when they think of the word 'copy,' they think of dragging a file from one side of a desktop to another. That makes it hard to have a conversation because at some level we have this feeling that a copy is the same thing."

But furniture isn't a digital file. A reproduction of a chair isn't identical to the original the way a copied JPEG is identical to the source image. Small differences in manufacturing show up in ways that aren't immediately visible but matter over time.

The original Eames lounge chair used seven carefully selected layers of plywood, heated and pressed at specific temperatures - part of the Eameses' broader experimentation with materials that were becoming luxury in mid-century furniture. The cushions evolved from down feathers to specific density foam chosen for long-term comfort. The shock mounts - those small rubber pieces between the aluminum and wood - were engineered to provide exactly the right amount of give.

A Plycraft version might use eight layers of plywood (not necessarily better, just different - often indicating the manufacturer took a different engineering approach). The foam density might vary. The shock mounts might use different rubber compounds. None of these differences were obvious in a showroom. They emerged through years of use.

This created a problem that concerned Charles and Ray: when an unauthorized version of their design failed - when mechanisms wore out or materials degraded - consumers often blamed the design itself, not realizing they weren't experiencing the original engineering.

The Legal Tangle of Protecting Furniture

Protecting furniture designs turned out to be remarkably difficult. Unlike pharmaceuticals or electronics, furniture exists in a legal gray zone where function and form overlap in ways that make intellectual property law contentious.

Design patents existed, but they expired. The Eames lounge chair's design patent protection ended in 1963 - just seven years after the chair debuted. After that, anyone could legally make a chair using those design principles, as long as they didn't falsely claim it was an actual Eames chair or misuse the Herman Miller name.

What Herman Miller did have was something called "trade dress" protection. Trade dress protects the "commercial look" of well-known designs - the overall appearance that consumers associate with a single source. The Coca-Cola bottle shape has trade dress protection. So does the Eames lounge chair's distinctive silhouette.

But trade dress is complicated to enforce. Courts require proving that:

  1. The design is non-functional (the appearance isn't required for the product to work)
  2. The design has "secondary meaning" (consumers associate this specific look with your company)
  3. There's likelihood of confusion (consumers might think an unauthorized version is official)

Courts have consistently ruled that the Eames lounge chair's overall appearance qualifies for trade dress protection. The three-shell construction, the exposed plywood edges, the specific proportions - taken together, these create a distinctive look that consumers recognize.

But enforcement gets messy. In 2016, a jury awarded Herman Miller $3.3 million in damages against Office Star Products for making unauthorized Eames office chairs. The jury also awarded another $3 million for trade dress dilution. Then the Ninth Circuit Court of Appeals reversed the dilution damages, ruling that the chair wasn't "famous" enough to qualify for that particular protection.

Not famous enough. The chair that's been in continuous production since 1956. That sits in the permanent collection of MoMA. That appeared in Frasier, Mad Men, and countless films. Apparently still not quite famous enough for the highest level of legal protection.

The Supreme Court declined to hear Herman Miller's appeal in 2021. The ruling stood.

The Market That Nobody Could Stop

By 2026, the replica furniture market had become sophisticated enough that U.S. Customs needed to train port inspectors specifically to recognize unauthorized furniture designs. In 2016, customs officials seized 42 shipments of unauthorized replicas worth $4.2 million. That was the first year they'd ever seized container-loads of replica designer chairs.

The agency claimed these enforcement efforts "helped protect over 8,000 American jobs," based on workforce data from U.S. furniture manufacturers. Whether that math holds up is debatable, but the scale of the market was undeniable.

Websites selling "reproductions" or "inspired by" versions operate openly across the internet. Some manufacturers are transparent about making replicas. Others blur the lines in their marketing. The average consumer browsing online has limited ability to verify what they're actually buying - authorized Herman Miller, high-quality reproduction, or something that won't hold up.

Manhattan Home Design in New York City became somewhat notorious for their approach. They sold replicas openly and even produced instructional videos on evaluating quality in reproductions. Their sales representatives made claims about their products matching licensed quality - claims Herman Miller would dispute, but proving in court requires navigating complex trade dress law.

The price difference is substantial. Eames-style lounge chairs are available at prices ranging from $400 to $2,000. An authentic Herman Miller runs $5,000-$10,000. That gap creates the market conditions where the replica industry thrives regardless of legal barriers.

The Question About Democratic Design

There's an uncomfortable question underneath all of this: does protecting designs through intellectual property law actually serve the goal of accessible design?

The Eameses built their reputation on furniture that regular people could afford. Their molded plywood chairs, their fiberglass shells - these were explicitly created to be mass-produced at reasonable prices. The lounge chair was their departure from that approach, but not because they wanted exclusivity. It was expensive because the materials and craftsmanship required to make it well cost money.

When other companies made similar chairs for less, were they undermining good design, or were they actually making that design concept more accessible? If a well-made reproduction sells for $1,800 instead of $6,000, more people can experience that design language in their homes.

The counterargument centers on innovation: other manufacturers didn't invest in the years of research, development, and testing that Charles and Ray did. They looked at the finished product and reverse-engineered it, skipping the expensive trial and error phase. That's a valid economic concern about who bears the cost of innovation.

There's also the reputation issue. When poorly made versions of a design fail, they can damage perceptions of that entire design approach. Someone who buys a $400 chair that breaks after two years might conclude that this style of chair isn't durable - without realizing the original engineering would have lasted decades.

But furniture isn't medicine. The stakes are different. If someone can't afford a $6,000 chair, is accessing a $1,800 version really problematic? Reasonable people disagree on this.

What Actually Changed After 1962

The honest answer: not as much as you'd think.

The full-page ads made Herman Miller's position clear, but they didn't stop unauthorized production. Plycraft continued manufacturing Eames-style furniture throughout the 1960s and '70s. As manufacturing globalized, production expanded internationally. By the time e-commerce made global furniture shopping routine, trying to stop replicas through traditional enforcement was essentially impossible.

What did evolve was the legal framework. Herman Miller and other manufacturers learned to use trade dress protection more strategically. They won some cases, lost others, and established precedents that at least made the legal landscape clearer.

Customs enforcement developed new expertise, though it remains limited by sheer volume. Training port inspectors to recognize furniture designs required entirely new knowledge bases in agencies more accustomed to dealing with counterfeit consumer electronics.

The market also stratified in interesting ways. High-end replica manufacturers emerged - companies making Eames-style chairs with quality materials and transparent marketing. They don't claim to be authentic Herman Miller products. They're clear about being inspired by the original design. They typically sell for $1,500-$3,000, positioned between budget versions and genuine articles.

Whether these occupy an ethical middle ground depends on perspective. Herman Miller maintains that any unauthorized use of protected designs is wrong. Others argue that once design patents expire, these design principles should be available for other manufacturers to use, provided they don't misrepresent the source.

The Eames Office (run by Charles and Ray's descendants) tends to focus less on legal battles and more on education. They emphasize the story behind the designs, the engineering involved, the longevity of properly manufactured pieces. The approach is less "replicas are illegal" and more "here's what you get with the authentic version."

The Irony at the Center

There's something fundamentally interesting about the Eames legacy. They were designers who genuinely believed in democratic design - furniture that worked well and looked good, accessible to regular people. They spent most of their careers making exactly that kind of furniture.

Then they made one expensive chair. Just one. And that expensive chair became the thing they're most famous for. Not the DCM dining chair that sold 18,000 units in a single year. Not the fiberglass shells that ended up in thousands of schools and offices. The luxury lounge chair.

And now we have a situation where an authentic Eames lounge chair costs more than most people spend furnishing their entire living room. Meanwhile, replicas exist at every price point, varying in quality and honesty, some well-made and some not, all of them trading on the recognition of that distinctive silhouette.

The 1962 ad asked consumers to check for the Herman Miller logo. To verify authenticity. To understand the difference between authorized and unauthorized production. Fair enough. But it also tacitly acknowledged that the market for alternatives existed because most people couldn't afford the authentic version.

Charles and Ray probably understood the irony. They just didn't have a solution that satisfied both their belief in accessible design and their concern about quality and innovation.

Where This Leaves Things Today

If you want an authentic Eames lounge chair today, you have two paths: buy new from Herman Miller (or Vitra in Europe) for $5,000-$10,000, or buy vintage. Vintage prices vary widely depending on condition, generation, and wood veneer - expect $3,000-$17,500 for pieces in good shape.

If you're considering a replica, the market offers options at every price point. Quality correlates somewhat with price, though not perfectly. A $1,800 reproduction from an established manufacturer with transparent practices differs significantly from a $400 version from an unknown source.

The ethical question remains genuinely unresolved. Herman Miller argues that unauthorized reproductions undermine designers and manufacturers. Replica makers argue they're making iconic designs accessible. Consumers want comfortable, well-designed furniture they can afford.

What's documentable: manufacturing quality varies enormously across price points. Materials, construction precision, and durability differ substantially. Research into specific manufacturers matters if you're considering options beyond Herman Miller.

What's also true: Herman Miller's manufacturing standards are demonstrably higher. The leather quality, plywood precision, and mechanism durability reflect decades of refinement. Whether that difference justifies the price premium depends entirely on individual budgets and priorities.

And here's the uncomfortable but honest part: the Eameses themselves would likely have complicated feelings about all of this. They'd probably object to manufacturers misrepresenting sources or using inferior materials that damage the design's reputation. But they also spent their careers arguing that good design shouldn't be exclusive to wealthy people.

The 1962 ad tried to navigate that contradiction. It didn't resolve it. The debate continues, the replicas keep coming, and the tension at the heart of democratic design - making something accessible while maintaining quality and innovation - remains as relevant now as it was seventy years ago.